
At Adam Lippes, the capes were soft and romantic – a floor-length claret wool version was layered over a calico dress in washed-out peach, with a frilled collar – while at Carolina Herrera, they looked crisp and urban in camel paired with white. This dual identity is precisely what makes Little Women dressing such an unexpectedly appealing trend.
These are clothes that have a dreamy, dress-up quality but translate remarkably easily into a 21st-century wardrobe. Spotted on one British fashion editor here at NYFW who is already working the trend is the oversized Scarlett boyfriend blazer, £180, by the Kentish Town-based London brand Palones, the wide sleeves of which convert to a cape style with a row of buttons. A practical touch of which I feel sure Jo March would approve.
Gerwig’s take on Little Women painted Amy, the most fashion-loving and apparently frivolous of the March sisters, in a sympathetic light. That Florence Pugh as Amy was the only actor to receive an acting nomination at the Oscars is another signpost of how fashion-friendly this interpretation of Louisa May Alcott’s book is. Amy March gives her more famous sister Jo a run for her money in the contest to be fashion’s current muse. Several looks from the Florence-Pugh-as-Amy wardrobe created by Durran have made their way on to fashion’s most influential new-season moodboards. The ornate, V-shaped bodice of the blouse and pinafore that Amy wears in the scene where she smartly schools Timothée Chalamet in the economic realities of marriage from a woman’s perspective echoed through the catwalks this week. At Adam Lippes, there were yoke-shaped frills on an oatmeal sweater with a lace collar; on the Tory Burch catwalk, Natalia Vodianova wore a black blouse with a V-shaped front panel edged in white piping, tied in a neat bow at the throat, paired with a long skirt over boots